Nit de Sant Joan (Night of Saint John, or night of the summer solstice)

This is one of my favorite celebrations in Barcelona. Actually, I think it happens in all of Catalunya and Valencia but I've really only witnessed in Barcelona and Sitges. It takes place during the night of the 23rd of June to the 24th because that is the shortest night of the year (i.e the summer solstice). 

Though the origins of the celebration are unknown, most people agree in viewing it as pagan ritual that was incorporated by the Church into the modern world, just like Christmas. Some paganists say that it is the "opposite" of Christmas Eve and therefore the Devil's night. 

Whatever its' origins, it's an incredibly beautiful and rich celebration of fire. In fact, an alternative non-Christian name for the celebration is Nit del Foc (Night of Fire). Bonfires are lit individually, by families or in large groups i.e. a small town might have a  communal fire for everyone (see pic). The idea is to burn anything useless that one has accumulated in the past year. Symbolically, you are renewing yourself by burning away the things you don't need, anything old or useless. In the old days, fire was also seen as a protector in the sense that it would burn away any bad spirits or thoughts haunting your house or town. 

I have not been lucky enough to be in Barcelona during this night in quite some time so I don't know that they still do it, but when I was a kid, there used to be a bonfire at pretty much every major intersection of the city, which made for a very magical night. 

There are also fireworks on Montjuich, which are gorgeous and light up the beautiful mountain. And the tradition is to drink Cava (our version of Champagne) and eat Coca. There are many different traditions associated with this night, way too many for me to mention here, but I'll post some of my favorites:

- one is supposed to stay up all night during the Nit de Sant Joan

- Correfocs also come out that night. The word literally means "run fire". Men or women dress up as little devils and carry some sort of metal paraphernalia that keeps fireworks (i.e. fire) coming, which literally makes them look like some sort of devil (not the evil kind) running in a ball of fire. Some of them will also dance and play music. 

- kids are allowed to set off fireworks all night long

- it is said that this night is the chosen one for all sort of mythological creatures and spirits to come out of hiding, so get ready for some sightings

Olivia Plaza

One of the questions I get all the time is where to stay in Barcelona. This is tricky to answer, as Barcelona is not exactly cheap. Plus with the euro-dollar exchange, it's tough for Americans right now. Renting apartments has become a major attraction recently and there is obviously good reason for it, specially if you are into shopping in the wonderful markets for meat, fish and vegetables that you'd be hard-pressed to find in the US. I'll do another post on renting apartments but for now, I'm plugging my friend Manuel's sister's hotel: Olivia Plaza. It's so new, I haven't even seen it yet but you couldn't be in a better place. In the heart of Plaza Catalunya which is a major square (well, it's round) at the top of the Ramblas, bottom of the Paseo de Gracia and connecting all major buses and subways. Her name is Olivia Valderrama. Tell her I sent you!

http://www.oliviaplaza.es Plaza Catalunya, 19 Barcelona, Spain

Spanish donkey. He is 3000 years old.

Black Rice in Mallorca! (Arroz negro.)

Primavera Sound!!!!!!

Primavera Sound has become one of the most anticipated and fun festivals in Europe in the last few years. This year it begins on the 28th of May and lasts only two days. If you are going to Barcelona or will be there, you HAVE to go. Crowds in Spain are well known for their enthusiasm and fun. Plus the line up is pretty great so far: Neil Young · My Bloody Valentine · Sonic Youth · Aphex Twin · Bloc Party · Jarvis Cocker · Yo La Tengo · The Jayhawks · Spiritualized · Michael Nyman · Throwing Muses · Saint Etienne · The Jesus Lizard · Ghostface Killah · The New Year · Phoenix · Shellac · Joe Henry · Art Brut · A Certain Ratio · Liars and many, many more.

Here's the official website: http://www.primaverasound.com/

Buen Vino en Nueva York

For those of you who like good Spanish wines, my favorite store in New York is Tinto Fino. During the summer, they have weekly tastings highlighting different areas in Spain. Some of favorites: Ribera de Duero and Rias Baixas. Yum.

Tinto Fino
85 First Avenue
New York, NY 10003
212.254.0850
www.tintofino.com

Housing

From my friend Andreas. This seems like a really good deal to me. I don't think there is such a thing as a "very quiet street" in that area in the summer, but it'll be good fun. Added bonus: You will be within walking distance of the great market La Boqueria. 

 Lovely studio for rent in Barcelona

I’m renting my studio for the summer.

Here goes the ad:

Very cute studio for rent in the heart of Barcelona – between the cathedral and city hall – very quiet street. From July until September 09 included or more.

700 € everything included: phone, ADSL, electricity. Washing-machine, microwave oven, TV, DVD, walk-in closet. Terrace with 360° view of the city. 1 double bed + 1 single guest bed.

700 €/ month
380 €/ 14 days
220 €/ week

+34 93 302 42 73 home
+34 651 773 001 cell
sophieines@web.de

El Quinto Pino

Anyone been to this place yet?

http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/el-quinto-pino/

I'm always suspicious of Spanish places in the US, because well, they tend to be Mexican. 

La Barceloneta in the evening. 

First Post

Greetings & Saludos!

As a Spanish girl living in the United States for the last 14 years, I get asked ALL the time for recommendations about my country. I was born in Madrid but grew up mostly in Barcelona and I like to go back at least once a year. 

This is going to be a purely personal, subjective, sometimes irreverent look at the places, tastes and smells I love. 

I hope it grows to be a good resource for travelers on both ends, as I have plenty of friends in Spain who ask me about New York too. 

Though this is a public blog, I am seeing it as a site for friends and friends of friends. If you have recommendations, opinions, etc. then let me know too. I'll probably be happy to plug your place as long as I know you. 

Oh, and I might be posting in Spanish from time to time.